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TRIP REPORT BELIZE (1994) (Chan Chich & Ambergris Cay)

VENT tour lead by Paul Wood/Drew Thate. notes prepared by Duane Carmony

This Victor Emanuel tour is essentially a week at Chan Chich (C) Lodge located in a Mayan Ruin in about 200 000 acres of relatively undisturbed rain forest near Gallon Jug (J), Belize, Central America. This was followed by a three day extension to Ambergris Cay. Time at Ambergris (A) was roughly equally divided between birding, snorkeling at the reef, and eating seafood. Dry season at C is Dec-June. There was no rain while there and the trails were dry and the rivers low. It rained one day at A. I recorded 223 species in Belize.

Symbols *=lifer, Cn indicates recorded by me on foot from Chan Chich Lodge with possible additional occurrences on drives in the Gallon Jug area on n days (n = 6 is maximum days bird recorded by the group provided I recorded it at least once). J indicates not recorded by me on trails at Chan-Chich, but recorded by me in Gallon Jug area. One day was spent driving the Gallon Jug area by each half of the group, and one night drive was taken (Mottled Owl and Potoo). The symbol Am indicates that I recorded bird m times (max = 3 days) at Ambergris Cay. Small letter means heard only. Birds not listed by me at Chan Chich/Gallon Jug are at end of this list.

MY BELIZE TRIP LIST 12/26/94-1/4/95

Great Tinamou C2 I and a leader separately saw 1
Brown Pelican A3
Double-crested Cormorant A3
Neotropic Cormorant J2
American Anhinga J1
Magnificient Frigatebird A3
Great Blue Heron J2A2
Great Egret J2A2
Snowy Egret C5A3
Little Blue Heron C6A2 one hung around the lodge
Reddish Egret A1 both color phases at bird cay
Cattle Egret C6A3
Green Heron J1A1
Black-crowned Night-Heron J2A3
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron J2A2
Boat-billed Heron A1 1 at bird cay
Wood Stork J1
White Ibis A1 few at bird cay
Roseate Spoonbill A1 1 at bird cay
Blue-winged Teal A1
Turkey Vulture C6A3
Black Vulture C3
King Vulture C2
Osprey J1A2
Hook-billed Kite C1 distant
White-tailed Kite J2A2
Double-toothed Kite C1 distant


Common Black-Hawk A3
Gray Hawk C1
Roadside Hawk C5
Short-tailed Hawk C1
Zone-tailed Hawk J1
*Ornate Hawk-Eagle C4 at nest and distant flight
American Kestrel J2
Bat Falcon C4 always same pair roosting
Peregrine Falcon J1
Plain Chachalaca C2A3
Crested Guan C5 roost in trees near lodge
*Great Curassow J2
*Ocellated Turkey C6 pests at lodge
*Ruddy Crake c2A2 one quick view
Sora Rail A1
Sungrebe C2 2 separate birds on river
Northern Jacana J2
Black-bellied/Gray Plover A1
Wilson's Plover A2
Whimbrel A2
Willet A2
Spotted Sandpiper A3
(Ruddy) Turnstone A2
Sanderling A1
Least Sandpiper A3
Laughing Gull A3
Caspian Tern A2
Royal Tern A3
Rock Dove C1
Scaled Pigeon c3
Red-billed Pigeon C2
Short-billed Pigeon C4
White-winged Dove A2
Common Ground-Dove A1
Ruddy Ground-Dove J2A3
White-tipped Dove A1
*Gray-fronted Dove C2
Olive-throated Parakeet C6A3
Brown-hooded Parrot C4
White-crowned Parrot C4
White-fronted Parrot C2 flying views
Red-lored Parrot C6 lots around lodge at dawn
Mealy Parrot C6 several around lodge
Squirrel Cuckoo C4
Smooth-billed Ani A1
Groove-billed Ani A2
Mottled Owl C3
*Black-and-White Owl c2
Common Nighthawk A1
Paraque C4
*Common Potoo J1 night drive
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift C6
Long-tailed Hermit C6
Little Hermit C6


*Wedge-tailed Sabrewing C6 flowering tree by lodge
Fork-tailed(Gldn-cr) Emerald C2
*White-bellied Emerald C3
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird C6
Cinnamon Hummingbird A3
Purple-crowned Fairy C4
Black-headed Trogan C5
Violaceous Trogan C6
Slaty-tailed Trogan C5
*Tody Motmot C2 one on trail to Norman's Temple
Blue-crowned Motmot C3
Ringed Kingfisher C3
Belted Kingfisher A2
Green Kingfisher C2
American Pygmy Kingfisher C2
White-whiskered Puffbird C4 at dump
Rufous-tailed Jacamar C4 at dump
Emerald Toucanet C1 1 bird
Collared Aracari C6
Keel-billed Toucan C6 23 in one flock at Lodge
Black-cheeked Woodpecker C6
Golden-fronted Woodpecker A3
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker A1
Smoky-brown Woodpecker C4
Golden-olive Woodpecker C4
*Chestnut-colored Woodpecker C3 along road
Lineated Woodpecker C5
Pale-billed Woodpecker C5
*Rufous-breasted Spinetail J2
Plain Xenops C4
Tawny-winged Woodcreeper C5
*Ruddy Woodcreeper C4
Olivaceous Woodcreeper C6
*Strong-billed Woodcreeper C2
Barred Woodcreeper C4
Ivory-billed Woodcreeper C6
Barred Antshrike J2
Dot-winged Antwren C4
Dusky Antbird C4
*Black-faced Antthrush C2 attacks tape recorders
*Yellow-bellied Tyrannulet C2
Greenish Elaenia C4
Yellow-bellied Elaenia C4A1
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher C4
*Sepia-capped Flycatcher C3
Northern Bentbill C2
Common Tody-Flycatcher J2
Eye-ringed Flatbill C4
*Stub-tailed Spadebill C4 absolute hell to see
*Royal Flycatcher C2
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher C5
Tropical Pewee C3
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher C4
Least Flycatcher C4


Bright-rumped Attila C3
Rufous Mourner C3
*Yucatan Flycatcher c2 distinct call
Dusky-capped Flycatcher C4
Great Crested Flycatcher C2
Great Kiskadee C2A2
Boat-billed Flycatcher C2
Social Flycatcher C4A2
Tropical Kingbird C4A3
Couch's Kingbird C3
Fork-tailed Flycatcher J2
Rose-throated Becard C3
Masked Tityra C4
*Black-crowned Tityra C2 along road
Rufous Piha C3
*Thrush-like Manakin C5 mostly heard
White-collared Manakin C5
*Red-capped Manakin C5 mostly females
Mangrove Swallow J2
Northern Rough-winged Swallow C3
Green Jay C2
Brown Jay C4
*Spot-breasted Wren C6
House Wren C2
White-bellied Wren c3 may be invisible
White-breasted Wood-Wren C5
Long-billed Gnatwren C4
Tropical Gnatcatcher C2
Wood Thrush C5
Clay-colored Robin C3
White-throated Robin C2
Gray Catbird C5
*Black Catbird A3 5 individuals
*Tropical Mockingbird A3 common near Hotel
White-eyed Vireo C4
*Mangrove Vireo C3 need tape
Yellow-throated Vireo C2
Tawny-crowned Greenlet C5
Lesser Greenlet C5
Blue-winged Warbler C1
Golden-winged Warbler C2
Tennessee Warbler A1
Yellow Warbler C3A2 includes Mangrove W on A
Chestnut-sided Warbler C5
Magnolia Warbler C5
Black-throated Green Warbler C4
Yellow-throated Warbler CA4
Black-and-white Warbler C5A2
American Redstart C5A2
Worm-eating Warbler C3A1
Northern Waterthrush C5
Louisiana Waterthrush C4
Kentucky Warbler C4
Common Yellowthroat J2A2


Gray-crowned Yellowthroat J2A1
Hooded Warbler C5
Wilson's Warbler C5
Yellow-breasted Chat A2
*Gray-throated Chat C3 responded to tape
Golden Masked Tanager C3
Green Honeycreeper C4
Red-legged Honeyeater C3
Yellow-throated Euphonia C6
Olive-backed Euphonia C5
*Yellow-winged Tanager C5
Gray-headed Tanager C3
*Black-headed Shrike-Tanager C4
*Red-crowned Ant-Tanager C4
*Red-throated Ant-Tanager C6
*Rose-throated Tanager C1
Summer Tanager C5
Grayish Saltator C3
Black-headed Saltator CA5
Black-faced Grosbeak C2
Rose-breasted Grosbeak C4A1
Blue-back Grosbeak C4
Blue Bunting J2
Indigo Bunting C4
*Green-backed Sparrow C2 near bridge on road
White-collared Seedeater C5A3
Great-tailed Grackle C3A3
*Melodious Blackbird C6
*Black-cowled Oriole C3
*Yellow-backed Oriole A1 far end of A by boat- only I saw
*Yellow-tailed Oriole J2
Hooded Oriole A3
Northern Oriole C4 Baltimore type
Montezuma Oropendola C6 one defending nestsite near lodge

Birds reported by other members of group while at Chan Chich: Gray-necked Wood-rail, Great Black Hawk(J), Red-tailed Hawk(J), Barred- forest Falcon (Heard only), Collared-forest Falcon(seen, I heard), Blue- ground Dove(J), Rudy-Quail Dove, White-necked Jacobin (at bridge on road), Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Plain Antvireo, Northern-beardless Tyrannulet. Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Lovely Cotinga, Barn Swallow, Scaly-Leaf-tosser(seen, I heard), Green-Shrike Vireo(heard only, I heard on 4 days!), Carolina Wren (White-browed race), Swainson's Thrush, Palm Warbler Ovenbird, Golden-crowned Warbler, Blue-Black Grassquit(J), Giant Cowbird, Yellow-billed Cacique(seen at J, I heard). For further birds of this time of year see Xmas count for Gallon Jug in Audubon Field Notes (A Jaguar was seen by Count compiler). Chan-Chich lodge is a wonderful, comfortable place. A room (your own building) is currently $85 single, $100 double. Three meals (excellent) is $35 per person. For $250 two persons get room, board, free beer, soft drinks, snacks, and free access to all activities: horseback riding, canoeing, guided visit to the Mayan ruins, driving tours of Gallon Jug area with naturalist, early morning and late afternoon bird walks with a knowledgeable staff member (unlike the tour leaders, they had no tapes, but they know their birds). It is possible to fly to Chan-Chich 3 times a week for $98 round trip. Also possible to drive or taxi to there but it takes 5 hours.

There is another lodge Chau Hiix- that advertises heavily in bird magazines. I was told to avoid.

Rental cars with the usual names will rent a four wheel drive for S100 plus $15 insurance (credit card insurance not valid on off road vehicles). A standard car is cheaper but you have to swear you won't go anywhere interesting to a birder (paved roads only). These cars are for use within Belize only. On the plane home, I meet an elderly couple who had been in Belize and Guatemala on their own. They were enthusiastic about a newish 4-wheel drive Chevrolet Blazer with A/C that they had rented for $65 per day insurance included and with all documents for leaving country. They were picked up/delivered to airport and drove to famous ruins at Tikal, Guatemala. He said it was not a long drive. They stayed at Jungle Lodge but also mentioned Jaguar Inn. Said both better than poor rooms at hotel on Tikal grounds. He was not a birder, but said from this hotel their were early morning tours into the ruins and that one could wander off from them and bird but this may not be early enuf [I had heard that despite the fact that the hotel was only so so, that it was the only way to get into the ruins at dawn when all the parrots scream through]. Oh, yes, they now drive on the right. I have had no personal experience with the above mentioned car rental place. It is: Smith's Auto Rental and Tours Dennis Smith 1-B Central America Blvd PO Box 599 Belize City, Belize (Central America) Phone 73779 Fax 75199

I think the Tropic Air flight to Ambergis Cay costs about $100 round trip. We stated at Mata Rocks Hotel (friendly owners, but have just sold). To see Black Catbird, walk back toward town from Mata Rocks and turn left at first corner, then left again after 100 yards and wander till you come to a soccer field--got almost all the Ambergis Cay land birds here (Yellow-backed Oriole was a fluke during lunch on the other end of the Cay (via boat). Could fly in early morning, get Black Catbird, Tropical Mockingbird, etc. and return to mainland late in day (missing a great dinner at Elvi's restaurant in "downtown" San Pedro!) When (soon I fear) this area near Mata Rocks is is turned into condos, further out the road from the Mata Rocks was a dump--might get Black Catbird there. Further out the island was a nice hotel, Victoria something or other. Can hire a boat to go to Bird Cay. Can walk in foot deep water around Bird Cay. Hotel reservations at Christmas seemed essential. Ambergis was 100% booked. So was Chan-Chich as our group nearly filled the 12 cabins. I heard they were normally >75% full except during rainy season.

My trip list was 223 species with 186 species seen while staying at Chan Chich (160 species on foot) and 67 species seen at Ambergis Cay (30 overlap). The number of lifers was 38 with 35 seen at Chan Chich and 3 at Ambergis (one CC lifer also seen at A). Without previous trips to Costa Rica and West Mexico, the number of lifers would have been 136. Without Costa Rica, the number of lifers would have been 111; without Mexico 43. Belize is a friendly place with a British sense of law and order. [It is said that parts of Belize City has a serious theft/pickpocket problem]. I have quoted 1994 prices in US dollars. Two Belizean dollars equals one US dollar.

I enjoyed meeting fellow birdchatters Robert and Jane Evans from Boston area on this trip.

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